Currently, the company has more than 100 retail outlets around the country. "We believe that through expansion and increased productivity, we can grow at least 20% annually in constant currency, doubling our sales base over the next four years and taking our market share to our goal of 15%, from about 8% today," says Lew Frankfort, chairman and CEO of Coach. "We now believe we could have at least 130 retail locations throughout Japan, including at least 15 flagship locations, more than double the current number."

Coach entered the Japanese market only in 1988, selling its bags at Mitsukoshi, a major Japanese department store. Later it added freestanding retail stores, and in 2001 it established Coach Japan Inc. and acquired PDC, the Mitsukoshi subsidiary that had distributed Coach products in Japan. Since then, sales have been on a fast upward track, growing over the past three years to about 30 billion yen ($280 million).

Japanese women have taken to the brand in a big way, despite years of a stagnant economy. Much of the brand's success probably stems from occupying a position between very expensive European handbags (Louis Vuitton is still the market leader, with Coach second) and much less expensive Japanese handbags. But the bags aren't cheap, an import point for Japanese buyers: A Coach tote runs about 80,000 yen ($750), but smaller bags cost about 45,000 yen ($420). The company characterizes its products as an "accessible luxury," and claims that two out of three of its new customers previously purchased European luxury bags.

To facilitate the brand's growth, Coach has hired Norito Ebata as EVP, retail and customer service; previously he worked for Starbucks, another foreign brand that has done conspicuously well in Japan. The company also plans to appoint a COO for Coach Japan later this year.

Opening stores isn't the only strategy the company is pursuing to flight for market share in Japan. Coach Inc. filed a complaint with the Japanese antitrust authorities last month, alleging LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA of anticompetitive practices, such as strongarming stores into not carrying Coach bags. LVMH has denied these charges, and now the matter rests with the Japanese equivalent of the Fair Trade Commission.

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